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House Problems by Year & Item Life Expectancy

  • Writer: Adam Garrett
    Adam Garrett
  • Jun 17, 2023
  • 19 min read

Updated: Jul 1


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I looked into some of the top articles available online regarding house issues by year, and found them helpful, but no single article was truly what I was looking for. This article is a compilation of some of those articles as well as other information I've gathered over my experience as a real estate agent.


Keep in mind as well that sometimes, newer problems exist in older homes when something was replaced. Also, sometimes older homes have elements that are superior to typical new construction. In addition, sometimes a neighborhood with 1 typical issue has 1 or more homes where the issue has been resolved. I am a licensed real estate agent, not a contractor or home inspector. Accordingly, I'll be quoting & citing/linking sources heavily.


%'s Below are % of Sales in Hampton Roads (VA)

%'s below represent those properties that sold in the past 20 days as of 6/17/23 according to REIN MLS in those locations where REIN MLS is primary out of 1357 properties.


Those cities/counties are:

Chesapeake

Franklin

Gloucester County

Hampton

Isle of Wight

Newport News

Norfolk

Poquoson

Portsmouth

Southampton

Suffolk

Surry

Virginia Beach

Williamsburg & James City County

York

Pre-1900 (.2%)



1900-1909 (.6%)




  • Structural Issues

    1. Wood, timbers, dimensioned lumber, laminated beams, trusses

    2. Slab, reinforced concrete

    3. Slab, post tensioned

    4. Continuous reinforced concrete footer and CMU stem wall

    5. Piers, reinforced concrete footer and CMU pier

    6. 40 years for Piers, treated timber post/pole

  • Crawlspaces are sometimes less than 18 inches in height from the bottom of the joists to the ground, & in some cases, the ground is below grade. Both are problematic, impacting resale per HUD, the ability to work underneath the house as well as potential problems meeting FHA loan requirements & VA loan requirements.

  • Significantly worse insulation & related thermal codes (i.e. single pane windows typical & no wall insulation typical)

  • Lead-Based Paint

  • Ceiling height is sometimes lower, i.e. 7'-8' (though current ceiling requirements are still only 7', with some exceptions even then)

  • See also "Lifespan of Various Home Components" below, with no items mentioned typically being expected to last this long, & some mentioned items having as low as a 6-year life expectancy (carpet)

1910-1919 (1.6%)




  1. Wood, timbers, dimensioned lumber, laminated beams, trusses

  2. Slab, reinforced concrete

  3. Slab, post tensioned

  4. Continuous reinforced concrete footer and CMU stem wall

  5. Piers, reinforced concrete footer and CMU pier

  6. 40 years for Piers, treated timber post/pole

  • Crawlspaces are sometimes less than 18 inches in height from the bottom of the joists to the ground, & in some cases, the ground is below grade. Both are problematic, impacting resale per HUD, the ability to work underneath the house as well as potential problems meeting FHA loan requirements & VA loan requirements.

  • Significantly worse insulation & related thermal codes (i.e. single pane windows typical & no wall insulation typical)

  • Lead-Based Paint

  • Ceiling height is sometimes lower, i.e. 7'-8' (though current ceiling requirements are still only 7', with some exceptions even then)

  • See also "Lifespan of Various Home Components" below, with no items mentioned typically being expected to last this long, & some mentioned items having as low as a 6-year life expectancy (carpet)

1920-1929 (1.3%)




  • Structural Issues 

    1. Wood, timbers, dimensioned lumber, laminated beams, trusses

    2. Slab, reinforced concrete

    3. Slab, post tensioned

    4. Continuous reinforced concrete footer and CMU stem wall

    5. Piers, reinforced concrete footer and CMU pier

    6. 40 years for Piers, treated timber post/pole

  • Crawlspaces are sometimes less than 18 inches in height from the bottom of the joists to the ground, & in some cases, the ground is below grade. Both are problematic, impacting resale per HUD, the ability to work underneath the house as well as potential problems meeting FHA loan requirements & VA loan requirements.

  • Significantly worse insulation & related thermal codes (i.e. single pane windows typical & no wall insulation typical)

  • Lead-Based Paint

  • Ceiling height is sometimes lower, i.e. 7'-8' (though current ceiling requirements are still only 7', with some exceptions even then)

  • See also "Lifespan of Various Home Components" below, with no items mentioned typically being expected to last this long, & some mentioned items having as low as a 6-year life expectancy (carpet)

1930-1939 (1.3%)




  • Structural Issues 

  • Crawlspaces are sometimes less than 18 inches in height from the bottom of the joists to the ground, & in some cases, the ground is below grade. Both are problematic, impacting resale per HUD, the ability to work underneath the house as well as potential problems meeting FHA loan requirements & VA loan requirements.

  • Significantly worse insulation & related thermal codes (i.e. single pane windows typical & no wall insulation typical)

  • Lead-Based Paint

  • Ceiling height is sometimes lower, i.e. 7'-8' (though current ceiling requirements are still only 7', with some exceptions even then)

  • See also "Lifespan of Various Home Components" below, with no items mentioned typically being expected to last this long, & some mentioned items having as low as a 6-year life expectancy (carpet)

1940-1949 (4.9%)




1950-1959 (8.8%)



  • Significantly worse insulation & related thermal codes (i.e. single pane windows typical & no wall insulation typical)

  • Lead-Based Paint

  • See also "Lifespan of Various Home Components" below, with items having a 6 to 75 year life expectancy

1960-1969 (10.5%)


  • Significantly worse insulation & related thermal codes

  • Mostly single-pane windows

  • 1965 building codes required homes to have insulation in walls

  • Lead-Based Paint

  • See also "Lifespan of Various Home Components" below, with items having a 6 to 75 year life expectancy

1970-1979 (9%)



  • EIFS issues start to become common

  • Asbestos (banned in 1978 in US)


  • Improving insulation & related thermal codes vs prior decades but still far from current standards. Double-pane windows start becoming common in homes.

  • Lead-Based Paint (banned in 1978)

  • See also "Lifespan of Various Home Components" below, with items having a 6 to 75 year life expectancy

1980-1989 (17.6%)


  • Polybutylene was big problem in 80's, & early versions w poly fittings (1st gen) are the worst type

  • Galvanized Plumbing 2,(rare in 80's but present - 40 yr life expectancy for supply per HUD)

  • Lead service lines to 1986 (not common in 80's before 86)

  • Safe Drinking Water Act was amended for further improvements in 1986 & 1996, with additional rules/legislation protecting drinking water in 1991, 2011, & 2024.


  • EIFS issues common

  • Improving insulation & related thermal codes vs prior decades but still not up to current standards

  • See also below "Lifespan of Various Home Components"


Example 1981 VA Building Code: - pages 3-4 include adoption of BOCA Basic Building Code 1981 Edition, including (1981 edition for all):

BOCA Basic Plumbing Code

BOCA Basic Mechanical Code

NFiPA National Electrical Code

1990-1999 (11.5%)


2000-2009 (13.4%)

  • Chinese Drywall (2000-2009)

  • Polybutylene (Typically until 1995, though I've seen as late as 2001)

  • Improving insulation & related thermal codes vs prior decades but still not up to current standards

  • Lower regulations for lead in plumbing vs in 2014, & again in 2024.

  • See also below "Lifespan of Various Home Components"

2010-2019 (7.9%)

  • Improving insulation & related thermal codes vs prior decades but still not up to current standards in some respects

  • Improved regulations for lead in plumbing in 2014 with "Safe Drinking Water Act" from 2011 legislation going into effect. Further legislation in 2024

  • See also below "Lifespan of Various Home Components"

2020-2023 (11.3%) & 2024

  • VA Insulation 2021: "Increased minimum ceiling insulation from R-38 to R-49"

  • Superior water quality standards from 2024 legislation

Details on Some of the Issues:

Lifespan of Various Home Components

Home inspectors & contractors vary substantially regarding the supposed lifespan of systems. Before jumping to replace something, consider mitigating issues if something were to break down unexpectedly based on cost & risk analysis. For instance, rather than replacing a 14 year old water heater that would leak into a finished area of a home, get a drain pan and drain line connection going if you don't already have one. If your pipes are out of date, consider getting an automatic shut off in the event of a leak detected, especially if your flooring is waterproof already. Also, be sure to understand details of warranty exclusions, insurance exclusions, and coverage available. I borrow heavily below form the HUD PDF on lifespan of home components:

List Below In Order of Minimum Year

Per HUD:

  • Flooring: 6 yrs (carpet) to 75 yrs (concrete/masonry/terrazzo)

  • Paint (8-20 yrs)

  • Furnace: 10-40 yrs

  • Roof: 10 yrs-75 yrs

  • Water Heater: 12-35 yrs

  • Cabinetry/Built-in Furniture (15-25 yrs)

  • Plumbing: 40 yrs (galvanized)-75 yrs

  • Septic Systems: 40 yrs if concrete, potentially less if another type

  • Electrical: 50 yrs for panel & wiring; 40 yrs for meter

  • Insulation: 50 yrs (loose fill)-60 yrs

  • Foundation: 100 yrs

  1. Wood, timbers, dimensioned lumber, laminated beams, trusses

  2. Slab, reinforced concrete

  3. Slab, post tensioned

  4. Continuous reinforced concrete footer and CMU stem wall

  5. Piers, reinforced concrete footer and CMU pier

Electrical: 50 yrs for panel & wiring; 40 yrs for meter


Typical lifespan, per HUD

Electrical Panel

50 years

Building Wiring

50 years

Building Meter

40 years

Flooring: 6 yrs (carpet) to 75 yrs (concrete/masonry/terrazzo)

Typical lifespan for family, per HUD

Typical lifespan for elderly, per HUD

Wood floor, laminated/veneered - Common - 20 yrs

25 yrs

3/4" strip hardwood or parquet - common 50 yrs

<-

Floor tile, ceramic, natural stone - Common 40 yrs

50 yrs

Carpet - Common - 6 years

10 years

Concrete/Masonry/Terrazzo - Common - 75 yrs

<-

Resilient tile or sheet floor (vinyl, linoleum) - Common - 15 years

Resilient tile or sheet floor (vinyl, linoleum) - Common - 20 years

Furnace: 10-40 yrs

Per HUD:

Furnaces/HVACs/Boilers

Per HUD:

Component

Lifespan (years)

Electric heat pump, condenser, pad or rooftop

15

Electric AC condenser, pad or rooftop

15

Electric furnace/air handler

20

Gas furnace/air handler

20

Wall mounted electric/gas heater

25

Electric baseboard heater

30

Window or thru-wall air conditioners

10

Package HVAC Rooftop

15

Boilers, Oil or Gas Fired, Sectional

25

Boilers, Oil/ Gas/ Dual Fuel, Low MBH

30

Boilers, Oil/ Gas/ Dual Fuel, High MBH

40

Misc Components

Component

Lifespan (years) Per HUD

transfer system

25

Gas/oil distribution lines

50

Fuel transfer system

25

Remediate/remove abandoned tanks/fuel lines

100

Fuel oil/propane storage tanks

40

Duct, rigid sheet metal, insulated if not in conditioned space

35

Duct, flexible, insulated

20

Duct, sealing-mastic or UL 181A or 181B tape.

20

Insulation: 50 yrs (loose fill)-60 yrs

per HUD:

Loose fill, fiber glass, cellulose, mineral wool

50 yrs

Batts, blankets, rolls, fiber glass or mineral wool

60 yrs

Rigid foam board

60 yrs

Sprayed foam

60 yrs

Paint (8-20 yrs) Cabinetry/Built-in Furniture (15-25 yrs)

per HUD:

Interior Paint (wall) 2 coats

15 years for family;


20 years for elderly


(common areas - finished walls, ceilings, floors)


Page 17 w similar states 10 years for family & 15 years for elderly)

Exterior Paint

8 years

cabinetry & built in furniture

20 years for family


25 years for elderly



(15 years for families & 25 years for elderly w mirrors & Medicine cabinets)


Plumbing: 40 yrs (galvanized)-75 yrs

per HUD:

Brass (started in late 18th century)

copper/brass hard pipe, supply - 75 yrs

Cast Iron (started in US in 1810)

75 yrs sanitary waste

Galvanized Steel (prior to 1970)

galvanized pipe, supply 40 yrs

PVC (started taking off in the 50's/60's)

PVC/CPVC pipe, supply and waste 75 yrs

Copper (started 4000 BC, 90% of indoor water piping in 1927, lost dominance around 1960, regained supremacy over galvanized in 70's)

copper/brass hard pipe, supply - 75 yrs


copper tube, supply 50 yrs

Galvanized aluminum (declined significantly after 1960's, but some use into 90's)

galvanized pipe, supply 40 yrs

Roof: 10 yrs-75 yrs

Per HUD:

Roof Replacement asphalt shingles

Life expectancy of 30 years some say is typical for asphalt shingles, but highly dependent on type, i.e. 10-15 for some asphalt shingles on mobile homes

20 yrs

Metal Roof

(per other sources for the details below)Some metals last longer than others, with even some metal roofs lasting 200 years, and the application of paint/maintenance can be a major factor as well. Per Architectural Digest, "Copper and zinc are the longest-lasting metal roofing materials. They require very little maintenance and have self-repairing properties. Aluminum and steel, on the other hand, are more common but have slightly shorter life spans." Stainless steel is different than steel, and one roofing company I found put it in the same longevity category as copper and zinc.

50 yrs

Slate Shingle

75 yrs

Clay/Cementitious Barrel Tile

60 yrs

Wood Shingle, Cedar Shakes/Shingles

25 yrs

Low Slop-Built Up Roof, With Gravel Finish

20 yrs

Low slope-Built-up Roof, no mineral or gravel finish

10 yrs

Low slope-Adhered rubber membrane, (EPDM)

15 yrs

Low slope-Thermoplastic membrane, (TPO, vinyl)

15 yrs

Low slope-Rubberized/elastomeric white/cool roof

15 yrs

Septic Systems: 40 yrs if concrete, potentially less if another type

Per HUD:

"Sanitary waste treatment system" life expectancy is 40 years. Concrete is the most common material used per Jensen Precast.


Per Forbes:

"A septic tank can last anywhere from 20 to 40 years or more if properly maintained. The exact lifespan of a septic tank depends on the type of system, soil and groundwater conditions as well as how often it is used.

Septic tanks must be pumped out every few years to remove stored waste and keep them functioning correctly."


  • Concrete: A concrete septic tank can last more than 40 years. While the upfront cost is higher than other material types, the longer lifespan makes it worth it. An adequately maintained old concrete septic tank can last for decades if it doesn’t experience any cracking or settling.

  • Steel: A steel septic tank will only last 15 to 20 years as the metal tends to rust and corrode over time. For this reason, steel septic tanks are rarely installed today; however, existing ones must be properly maintained to extend their lifespan.

  • Fiberglass and Plastic: Fiberglass and plastic septic tanks compete with concrete ones when it comes to longevity, lasting 30 years and beyond, with proper care. The durability does come at a price, as fiberglass septic tanks tend to be the most costly."

Water Heater: 12-35 yrs

Per HUD:

Component

Family

Elderly

External tankless heater, gas or electric

20

20

Solar hot water 20 20

20

20

Residential hot water heater, gas or electric

Tanked Electrical 10-15 yrs (Forbes) 12+ if well maintained (Angi)

Tanked Gas 8-12 yrs (Forbes) 10+ if well maintained (Angi)

12

15

Flue, gas water heaters

35

35


Windows (30-50 yrs)

Lifespans provided by HUD

Window Type

Family

Elderly

Wood, (dbl, sgl hung, casement, awning, sliders)

35

45

Wood, fixed pane, picture

40

45

Aluminum

35

40

Vinyl

30

30

Vinyl/Alum Clad Wood

50

50

Storm/Screen Windows

7

15

Asbestos

Until it was banned in the US in 1978, asbestos was a common material found in home insulation, insulation around pipes, siding, & flooring. While it worked as directed, it was found that it also caused cancer when breathed in. The most cost effective way to remediate asbestos is via encapsulation by someone certified to handle a job w/ asbestos including the proper equipment.

EIFS (Exterior Insulation & Finishing System)

EIFS with the least need for concern, which can actually be a great material at times (you'll hear mixed opinions on which is more energy efficient, brick or EIFS), is often on the newer side, especially EIFS where:

  1. EIFS installed over a water-resistive barrier with a means of draining moisture to the exterior

  2. EIFS installed over masonry or concrete walls


Depending on the type of EIFS, here are some potential issues:

  1. Can hurt the resale value

  2. Expensive to Repair.

  3. Important to immediately repair if there’s a crack to prevent issues spreading.

  4. Important to know about any previous inspections (ideally w reports) and if there are any active warranties

  5. Quality can vary substantially

https://buildingscience.com/documents/digests/bsd-146-eifs-problems-and-solutions


https://www.thebalancesmb.com/eifs-synthetic-stucco-1797883


http://www.eima.com/eifs/faq/maintenance-warranty

Insulation

R Values codify the resistance of a material to heat transfer.

In SE VA, it's recommended to have the following insulation levels:

Attic: R38-R60 (i.e. 1'-1.5' of fiberglass batts)

Floor: R25-R30 (i.e. 8"-9" of fiberglass batts; keep in mind viable alternative rigid foam)

Wall: R5 (i.e. 1.5" of fiberglass batts; keep in mind viable alternative rigid foam)


Here are some helpful recommendations regarding what's optimal insulation prior to the point of diminishing returns:

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Images courtesy EnergyStar.


Other Notable R Values:

1" Plywood: 1.25

1/2" Fiber Board Sheathing: 1.32

1/2" Medium Density Particle Board: .53

4" Common Brick: .8

4" Face Brick .44

4" concrete masonry unit: .8


3/4" hardwood floor: .68

Tile: .05

Carpet with fiber pad: 2.08


Glass:

1/4" Single Pane Glazing: .91

Double Pane with 1/4" air space: 1.69

Double Pane with 1/2" air space: 2.04

Double Pane with 3/4" air space: 2.38

Triple Pane with 1/4" air spaces: 2.56

Triple Pane with 1/2" air spaces: 3.23


Doors:

1.75" Wood, Solid Core: 2.17

1.5"-2" Solid insulated metal door, polystyrene insulation 2.2-7

1.5"-2" Solid insulated metal door, polyurethane insulation 2.5-11



R-value insulation recommendations by Energy Star on the above map haven't changed since at least as early as 2008 (33-page 2008 publication - see page 20 for the map) as of the time of this authorship in 2023.


As stated on Energy Star's Insulation Fact Sheet page 21:

"Look into your walls. It is difficult to add insulation to existing walls unless:

• You are planning to add new siding to your house, or

• You plan to finish unfinished space (like a basement or bonus room).


If so, you need to know whether the exterior walls are already insulated or not. One method is to use an electrical outlet on the wall, but first be sure to turn off the power to the outlet. Then remove the cover plate and shine a flashlight into the crack around the outlet box. You should be able to see whether or not insulation is in the wall. Also, you should check separate outlets on the first and second floor, and in old and new parts of the house, because wall insulation in one wall doesn't necessarily mean that it's everywhere in the house. An alternative to checking through electrical outlets is to remove and then replace a small section of the exterior siding.


Look under your floors. Look at the underside of any floor over an unheated space like a garage, basement, or crawlspace. Inspect and measure the thickness of any insulation you find there. It will most likely be a fiberglass batt, so multiply the thickness in inches by 3.2 to find out the R-value (or the R-value might be visible on a product label). If the insulation is a foam board or sprayed-on foam, use any visible label information or multiply the thickness in inches by 5 to estimate the R-value.


Look at your ductwork. Don't overlook another area in your home where energy can be saved - the ductwork of the heating and air-conditioning system. If the ducts of your heating or air-conditioning system run through unheated or uncooled spaces in your home, such as attic or crawlspaces, then the ducts should be insulated. First check the ductwork for air leaks. Repair leaking joints first with mechanical fasteners, then seal any remaining leaks with water-soluble mastic and embedded fiber glass mesh. Never use gray cloth duct tape because it degrades, cracks, and loses its bond with age. If a joint has to be accessible for future maintenance, use pressure- or heat-sensitive aluminum foil tape. Then wrap the ducts with duct wrap insulation of R-6 with a vapor retarder facing on the outer side. All joints where sections of insulation meet should have overlapped facings and be tightly sealed with fiber glass tape; but avoid compressing the insulation, thus reducing its thickness and R-value.


Return air ducts are often located inside the heated portion of the house where they don't need to be insulated, but they should still be sealed off from air passageways that connect to unheated areas. Drywall- to-ductwork connections should be inspected because they are often poor (or nonexistent) and lead to unwanted air flows through wall cavities. If the return air ducts are located in an unconditioned part of the building, they should be insulated.


Look at your pipes. If water pipes run through unheated or uncooled spaces in your home, such as attic or crawlspaces, then the pipes should be insulated."


Watch out for vermiculite insulation, which may contain asbestos. Likewise, asbestos insulation is present on some pipes that are wrapped in it & elsewhere.

Lead-Based Paint

Prevalence:

"The older your home, the more likely it contains lead-based paint. For example, 87% of homes built before 1940 have some lead-based paint, while 24% of homes built between 1960 and 1978 have some lead-based paint (EPA)."


Remediation:

"Maintain all painted surfaces in good condition. Clean frequently using a wet mop, cloth or sponge to reduce the likelihood of chips and dust forming. Use a lead-safe certified renovator to perform renovation, repair and painting jobs to reduce the likelihood of contaminating your home with lead dust (EPA)."

"Painting over lead paint is known as “encapsulation,” and it’s frequently used as an effective remediation technique. In fact, it’s less expensive and safer than lead paint removal, since it doesn’t disturb the existing paint and doesn’t tend to release lead dust or toxic particles into the air. Just remember that conventional oil- or water-based paints are not sufficient for encapsulation. You’ll need to use specific paints called “encapsulants” during the process and follow the necessary steps to ensure the job is done safely and correctly (JSE Labs)."

Among the sources I used, I drew most heavily from this article by Waypoint Property Inspection, but as you'll see above, according to my research, they had a number of items missing (i.e. earlier versions of EIFS) & some things that they had that should have been in additional decades. Links are primarily to locations outside of this website from sources for this article.



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